Epicopia

Many people in North America tend to associate Syrah with its Australian cousin, Shiraz. After all, it is the same grape. Syrah is actually indigenous to the Rhone Valley in France, where it is often blended with other indigenous varieties like Grenache and Mouvedre for increased balance and complexity.

So what's up with Syrah in Chile? Lots. Let's first look at the geography of where these babies are grown since that will dictate the style and ultimately what you'll be eating with this juice. The Syrah that hails from the warmer inland valleys at the feet of the Andes like Aconcagua, Maipo, and Colchagua, have hot summers and cool nights, perhaps best for growing ripe Syrah. The Syrah here mirrors the Aussie style with full wines, robust textures, alcohol percentages soaring up to 14.5, and fruit flavors like blackberry jam, dried figs, black cherry preserves and tons of spice. These are sweet, round wines that explode with fruit and go down like a subtle nectar.

On Chile's foggy coast, however, the Syrah story reads differently, and is closer to the Northern Rhone in style. Now coined "Cold Weather Syrah" to set them apart from the above-mentioned bunch, what really defines these wines is the coastal fog that creeps over the mountains many mornings. Cooler temps but enough heat give the grapes ample time to mature without turning into a grape bonbon (or raisin!). In appellations like Casablanca, San Antonio, and the Limarí, the fruit clings till the last days of harvest. These wines are chock full of fresh fruit notes such as blackberry and blueberry, herbaceous tones like sage, an electric acidity, and a wild edge that personally drives me crazy (love them!). It is almost infanticide to drink them so young since their aging potential will easily be 10 years to let their Sonic Youth vibe mellow out. Nonetheless, even as "children", they already exude elegance and restraint, revealing themselves slowly in the glass.

You could drink Chilean Syrah for a solid month and not get bored. The infinite expressions of this grape amaze me combined with the myriad of microclimates and wineries producing them. Pair them up with some unique dishes and listo you have all the ingredients for a holiday season filled with Syrah.

Kingston, Bayo Oscuro Syrah 2006 (Casablanca) US$33
Wild thing. This wine is nervous and young with notes of sage, blackberries, spices overseen by consultant extraordinaire Byron Kosuge (formerly of Saintsbury in Carneros, CA). It also whispers of those forested hills not far from the Pacific where it is born. Inspiring and I will be blatantly honest, one of my favorite Syrahs in Chile. To be sought out, for sure. If the price is a little steep, try their Lucero brand, one step down more in the US$20 range. Not as profound as the Bayo, but a good preview of Kingston's style.
Pairing: Salt-crusted Whole Sea Bass Stuffed with Lemons and Sage

Tabalí, Reserva Especial Syrah 2006 (Limarí) US$14
Can you say the price is right? Seriously, run out and buy cases of this one. Another awesome example of the new generation of Syrah from "cooler" desert coastal area of the Limarí. This is a basket of black raspberries with lots of acidity and crunchiness. The mineral notes so typical of the Limarí show up, making it not sweet but savory. Unusual and explosive. Did I mention about the price?
Pairing: Grilled Jumbo Prawns (marinate in a little lemon) on Rosemary Skewers

Matetic EQ Syrah 2006 (Casablanca) US$45
The 2007 may be in the market by now but really, it is too young to drink. Just say no to drinking wines this young that are made to age. However, 2006 is a slightly different number. This wine is inky to look at with a lot of viscosity. The nose is full of blackberries, subtle smokiness, and a very present herbal note. In the mouth, it is wound up tight, concentrated, and long. Needs some serious oxygen before you can fully appreciate it. More immediately gratifying is their Coralillo wine. Once again, it may lack the depth and aging potential but it also costs US$20 and the berries and black peppers are just delicious from first whiff.
Pairing: Homemade potato gnocchi with sage brown butter and shaved Manchego

Casa Silva, Lolol Gran Reserva 2007 (Colchagua) US$14
Hailing from the coastal valleys near Lolol in Colchagua, this Syrah packs a serious punch. Not overly aromatic, some peppery notes escape as do a very restrained fruit. In the mouth, it feels like Sonic Youth: edgy with scratchy tannins and a seemingly untamed personality. Have some patience, decant it, aereate it, swirl so it can express itself. Some tasty fatty lamb chops will also tame it.
Pairing: Cumin-crusted lamb chops and fire-roasted potatoes

Concha y Toro, Marqués de Casa Concha Syrah 2006 (Loncamilla) US$15
Dark, dense, and chewy, the fruit is over the top in this Syrah: oodles of sun ripened blackberries and cherries. There's this funky flavor at the end, maybe reminds me of resin or macadam (tar?), which doesn't contrast. The tannins are assertive but if they weren't, would it really be Syrah? Concha y Toro is everywhere and this Syrah, for my taste, is a nice crowd pleaser.
Pairing: Seared Wild Salmon with a Chinese 5-spice glaze; grilled asparagus also a nice side.

Amayna, Syrah 2007 (Casablanca) US$24
This is the kind of wine that will stain your glass, not to mention your teeth (smile!). Peppery, blackberry-laden, with a slightly floral note, it is concentrated and powerful but always demonstrating grace with round tannins. This wine is radiant and probably in another 10 years will be a subtle animal with earthy notes. A salute to its French cousins. Very bold and memorable.
Pairing: Lamb Tagine with Dried Fruit Couscous

Maycas del Limarí, Reserva Especial 2006 (Limarí) US$14
This wine is a little chewy with notes of black currant, figs (almost "fig newtony"), and graphite mix together. Well rounded and savory, I always get a flash of herbs with this wine. Unusual, earthy and tasty.
Pairing: Indian Dahl; or any earthy-tasting lentil soup

Loma Larga, Syrah 2007 (Casablanca) US$28
Holy concentration. Take a sniff and it erupts with blackberry jam aromas, maybe a hint of coffee. In the mouth, it pulls up more of the same mixing in this mineral component that is so typical of coastal Syrah. It could be a monster with big tannins and a lot of body but the acidity pulls this baby through so it doesn't tire out your palate. Forceful without being pushy. I am not totally sure where to find Loma Larga in the US. This wine is awesome though.
Pairing: Keep It Simple. Think good Maytag (Blue), crunchy black pepper crackers, a fireplace and couple hours with good company to enjoy.

Liz Caskey - South American food, wine, and travel expert, Liz Caskey, publishes the praise winning newsletter and Eat Wine blog with subscribers around the world. Spice up your life and pleasure quotient--sign up for free at www.lizcaskey.com or Eat Wine Blog. Published with permission from Liz Caskey.

Epicopia will be introducing in early 2010 our Explore Culinary South America Experiences for travel in late 2010 and early 2011. If you are interested in discovering the riches of wine and food in South America send us an email to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it expressing your interest and you will be the first to receive advance information as soon as it is available.

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The Details: For more information and a detailed itinerary and planning your extended culinary and wine travel in South America, call Epicopia today at 972.771.3510 or 877.661.3844. Or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .